Edelrid), but I've used one of those Grivel biners with the two wire gates. If you really want to, there are a bunch of auto-lock mechanisms that are easier to operate one handed (e.g. ![]() Actually, it would probably be very difficult in most situations to loop the rope through a hanging Magnetron while keeping the gate open after pinching the opening mechanism. I think the opening mechanism on those would be too fiddly to perform one-handed while hanging in an awkward spot, for example. Regardless, of all the ways to create a locking quickdraw, a Magnetron seems like a cumbersome and difficult choice to me. It can add to your peace of mind, but it can also add extra fuss that is most often unnecessary. Some sport climbers carry an occasional locking biner quickdraw on certain routes where a particular clip is going to be subject to weird pulls and/or where failure of that particular protection point would be catastrophic. Just a thought in case you want a happy medium between carrying a locker on every draw and doing nothing. To be honest, its happened to me too (weird rope unclipping events), but not so often that I thought it was a thing before my buddy assured me it wasn't just my shitty rope management that caused the problem. I probably would have thought the 'flipping' practice was crusty old guy overkill, but for the fact that the guy who suggested it to me has 40+ years of experience, including 1000s of FA's (i.e., he has way more mileage and experience than I will ever), and he assures me that he has watched his draw become unclipped from the rope via rope flutter many, many times. The other option that some of my old-timer partners swear by is clipping and then flipping the biner so that it is 'upside down'. ![]() ![]() Generally speaking, it never hurts to add a locker, but you just can't practically do it all the time. (2) when I am sport climbing and there is a clip circumstance where I am worried about an awkward or weird fall angle and there is a high consequence for the rope unclipping, then I will put on a locker for good measure. (1) I am about to cast off on a runout where I know that this is the last piece (bolt or gear) that I will get for quite a while, and hence a fall would not only be high consequence, but the fall itself is likely to generate a lot of flutter with the rope and draw that could in principle cause unclipping of the rope from the draw. Two examples that occur fairly frequently for me where I include a locker are the following (one a trad scenario and one in a sport scenario). That said, there are certainly circumstances where a locker on one (or both) ends of your draw is worthwhile. Brandon R wrote: I have one of these that I use for critical or funky situations where I'm worried about accidental unclipping.Īs others have stated, the best solution to your problem is, for the most part, to never backclip.
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